Cameos: narrators of ancient times

Meticulous and refined, the cameo technique is rightfully among the most treasured forms of glyptics, the art of carving gems, as it consists of creating a relief carving on multi-layered materials, such as colored and opaque gemstones or shells. These media enable to maintain a good color contrast between the different levels of the work. The word

cameo is originally derived from the Arabic word gama'il, meaning flower bud. From this came the ancient French designation camaheu, which later gave rise to the current term.

Since they mainly depict social and historical events, mythological and religious figures, and the favored motifs of various historical periods, these pieces of jewelry serve as privileged narrators of past eras capturing the styles, philosophies, beliefs and values of their time. Cameos cannot be regarded as mere decorations, but are artifacts that carry with them stories of civilizations, artisanship, and symbolism. This is the reason behind their appeal, which manages to cross centuries, fashions, and cultures, standing the test of time.

The history of all the great civilizations of the past is linked to the evolution of cameos, which have very ancient origins. Just consider that petroglyphs, rock carvings, and seals, crafted by the Egyptians thousands of years before Christ, are considered the ancestors of this technique. It was in the Phoenician and Etruscan periods that actual gemstones - primarily agate and onyx - began to be used for ornaments depicting natural elements, faces, or epic figures. In the Hellenistic period, the Greeks continued to further refine this craftsmanship, resulting in mythological scenes and portraits of extraordinary finesse.

It was the Romans, however, who gave cameos unparalleled importance, which, from this time on, became part of the favorite jewelry of the wealthier classes, who wore them set in rings and fibulae, but also on helmets and shields as a symbol of power. Emperor Octavian Augustus made them an emblem of prestige, ordering the production of splendid pieces depicting his image and accomplishments, some of which are still preserved in the world’s most important museums.

 

He and his family were great collectors of these artifacts, thus it was in Florence that the technical skills of cameo making were firstly rediscovered. At this time these artifacts depicted mainly scenes from ancient myths and legends.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, with the advent of Neoclassicism, cameos reached new heights of popularity. In these centuries, production expanded greatly, succeeding in winning over not only the nobility but also the bourgeoisie.

The most popular shell for cameo production is Cassis madascarensis, the Sardonic shell, which is characterized by distinct layers of color, ranging from brown to white, providing an ideal contrast for engraving intricate details.

The undisputed capital of cameo production is Torre del Greco, a small town close to Naples, that has for centuries excelled as the hub of this particular artisanal tradition. Handed down from generation to generation in local workshops, this art is a meticulous process that requires care and attention at every step, starting with the choice of the shell best suited to the intended shape and color of the final piece

The first stage of cameo making is called scoppatura, where the most valuable part of the shell, the so-called cup, is isolated for engraving. This is followed by segnatura and cutting, where the edges of the intended design are outlined, allowing excess material to be removed immediately.